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pump Mod's?

 
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Xerophobic



Joined: 23 Jun 2005
Posts: 970
Location: Calgary Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Tue May 30, 2006 7:11 pm    Post subject: pump Mod's? Reply with quote

K my parts are on the way and my pump is completely apart and out of the boat. Anyone suggest anything I can do in the next few days to improve performance a bit?
I've taken a die grinder to the trailing edges of my Berk bowl and tapered that blunt area. Worked it down to about 1/16 " (only touching front side of vanes)
Ive also rounded the exit on the outside diamter of the bowl, taken away that sharp edge
When I reinstall it i will line it up perfectly (it wasn't before)and am going to bondo over the small gap between the suction and intake.
I've started making a new intake grate that has airfoil shaped bars (xCool the outside 4 symetrical and the inner 4 asymetrical pulling the water away from the centerline.
Any other suggestions?
Is it worth sharpening my SS imp a bit before install?
Thanks guys I wanna see some decent speeds outta this thing finally

Cheers

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T-53 , why go up and down when you wanna go round and round????
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YKX



Joined: 21 Jul 2005
Posts: 181
Location: Yellowknife

PostPosted: Wed May 31, 2006 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a drop snout without a reverse bucket, then play with the wedges for the perfect feel.

YKX
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WILSON



Joined: 17 Jun 2005
Posts: 352
Location: Mexico City

PostPosted: Wed May 31, 2006 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think you'll be getting much advise on this one, as no racer will want to disclose trade secrets.

But I'm a nice guy. Cool

Yes, it is a good idea to shape the intake grate bars as fins or "airplane wings".

Yes, you will actually see and feel a difference if you sharpen the blades of that impeller. You can also sharpen the blades on the bowl.

When installing the impeller, make sure you have a low clearance between the front of the impeller and the wear ring. Distance should be between 0.025" and 0.030". You will have to try a lot of shim combinations until you get what you want.

Use a shouldered wear ring.

Use bondo to eliminate and smoothe (Is this a correct word???) any gaps between the wear ring and the suction piece, along the water direction.

Make sure you have a smooth path on the direction of water between the suction piece and the boat intake and bottom.

Some people like to block the hand hole cover. I donīt like this approach, but it seems to work.

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Xerophobic



Joined: 23 Jun 2005
Posts: 970
Location: Calgary Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Wed May 31, 2006 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Wilson, I figured a few people would give me some pointers on what to try. I think I have a good general idea of what to aim for but you did raise a point I had not considered(gap between wear ring and housing near insulator)
I had also planned on "pinning" the wear ring with a single 1/4" bolt to secure it in place.
I have a shouldered AT wear ring on the way and SS "a" impeller. Sounds like that impeller can be made alot better than stock with some time spent with a die grinder
Anyone running inducers on pumps in whitewater racing? I have heard already bowl stuffers are used
Cheers

(nozzle mods etc are next project XY Wink )

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