OUTLAW EAGLE MANUFACTURING

[YKX]

Running out of summer up here in the north. Need some advise

Got a BBF 429 70' that is brand spankin rebuilt ready for the water. Was in the process of timing the motor to break it in when <BANG> after the first minute, then got worse. It sounded like the starter was engaging when the motor was running. shut it down, took the starter off, checked the start teeth, some bent ones and the flywheel teeth looked like they were worked on, not to bad though.

Put the starter back on the motor, connected the wire good, with no play in it, and started the motor in the parking lot, then again after 5 sec, BANG! shut her down.

Can the flywheel be backwards? This is the first time this has happened to me, and I have been through a few starters.

Any advise would be great. Thanks

YKX

[WILSON]

The regular flywheel has a stamp that says ENGINE SIDE and that side goes inside. I don´t know about those fancy over the counter flywheels.

Also, if the flywheel has a balancer in the shape of a metal sheet, it usually goes inside.

In your case, I would check that the flywheel is flat. If it´s not, discard and get a new one.

If the flywheel is flat, then the mechanism that brings the gear in the starter back to position is damaged and you need a new starter.

I wish I could think trying something that won´t cost you, but at the moment that´s my thought.

[WILSON]

I made and effort and thought.

I remember a similar problem when I first mounted the engine on the boat and turned out that the flywheel was touching the engine support. Just make sure you have at least 3/8" around the flywheel free, specially on the lower half.

[YKX]

do you mean the metal frame between the bellhousing and motor?

Thanks for the suggestions. Looking at the starter right now. Will keep you updated.

YKX

[WILSON]

Yes, that one. Although I personally don´t have any bellhousing back there...

[YKX]

Personally, I would like to do the same as the racers. ALOT easier to look at the back of the motor, check the flywheel out and not play with the STUPID cup that goes between the pump and bellhousing. I guess it is called the uv joing housing. what a pain in the azz when it come to removing and installing the motor.

Who makes these mounts?????

YKX

[Xerophobic]

Hey man, sry to hear you're havin more troubles, you gotta get that thing out on the river!

I run a flexplate on my 460 and never had any problem with it. I can't suggest anything to you at this stage but if you could show some pics maybe???

I have a CNC drawing of the 3/8" plate I had waterjet for the tunnel rear mount if that may help. Its not cut to size on the bottom as I had to install it and then trim. Let me know if its of use for ya. It at least has the bolt holes etc

Cheers

[Xerophobic]

I also thought a lil more...
on a flexplate there is a 'flat side' and a "not flat side" right in the middle where it slips on the ring on the end of the crank. the flat side faces the motor. I'm guessin this is not your problem tho and would look into what was mentioneda bout flywheel contacting something else. I don't know a thing about a 429/460 flywheel however
You're right , it is nice having the flywheel etc all exposed like this...

Cheers

[YKX]

Xerophobic and others

Thanks for the advise would would like to take a serious look at that plate if it is for sale. Would only need to fab. an engine mount for the back. Small potatoes. Anyway, I may have found the culperate. the Key ignition wire (batt. wire) was broken off. It would site there for the key to work then come off once the engine started then hit the port while the motor was running causing the starter to jump while the motor was running.

I am going to get this fixed and THEN try again. GOING to make this boat work come hell or high water. Will keep you informed. Xerophobic, do you have a pic of your solenoid for wire hookup? I want to doubel check the hook for me. Here is mine

[TR Blue]

Look to me that you have your soleniod wired up wrong.
Alternator wire has to go on positive side of soliniod first of all. If wired in the way it is now once alternator started to put out power it would cause srater to stay engauged. Also you should trace down the black wire to dash. Find out where it goes or comes from. The only wire you should have on the starter side of solenoid should be the big black on running to you starter. Unless you have the Mod Stater with its own solenoid on it. If so then it will have to be wired differnt.

[Xerophobic]

Im not the best person to ask cause my starter has the solenoid right on it.
I should get a mini starter sometime just for the weight savings.
As I said i have the CAD file for the plate, it has all the holes u need except the starter unfortunatly. I just laid my old belhousing on the plate and transfer punched the holes for the starter and haven't had any issues yet. Could you find a local shop that does laser cutting or even better waterjet??? I had both plates made for $150 but i provided the CAD file
Get that thing in the water already!
lol
Cheers

[YKX]

TR.

I did do that with the alterator wire, but it fried the ground wire that was from the alterator to the boat. Does the ground wire need to be grounded to the motor?? I didnt think it made a difference.

Xerophobic, SURE! Send me over the specs and I will get the NEW system on my boat. A way better setup for this SH*T. slenoir@nwtafn.com

Thanks guys for everything. I am going to work on the damn thing this pm and see if we can get the thing going.

[WILSON]

A note on grounds:

Yes, make sure every ground cable has a direct connection either with the engine block, or the negative wire terminal. The negative wire from the battery should go direct to the block.

It´s a good idea to measure electric resistence with a multimeter between all the ground connections and the battery negative terminal. Resistence should be zero or very low. Use heavy wires for grounds and you will avoid a lot of problems with the electronic stuff. (MSD´s, alternators, bilge pumps, etc)

[YKX]

Will do that!

Keep you posted!

YKX