OUTLAW EAGLE MANUFACTURING

Fire Water · Joined: 26 Oct 2006 Posts: 12

I plan on installing an oil cooler as part of my rebuild. 15.5', Aluminum Jetboat, 406sbc. Rexmar has a 2" model that has 3/4 water ports. I was thinking about running my block cooling water through the oil cooler first (kinda like having the water pass through jacketed manifolds as a preheater). I also run a pressure regulator set at 16 psi. Anybody tried any thing like this? Would I still have enough cooling capacity for my block?

AR · Joined: 23 Jun 2005 Posts: 181 Location: Iowa, USA

It will still cool your block, but running it that way you won't be able to build any heat in your oil when the water is "Cold" like in the Spring and Fall.

AR · Joined: 23 Jun 2005 Posts: 181 Location: Iowa, USA

One more thing, oil coolers, bigger is better within reason.
Don't worry about the water fitting size when you are looking for a cooler.

After you buy one just take a "brass" threaded reducer bushing with the right ID, turn down the OD so it fits in the cooler and solder it in place.

Use 50/50 low temp, because if you try to silver solder it in, it will get to hot and the caps will fall off. That's from experience. Embarassed

Most of the nice coolers on Ebay or in the "Big Boat" adds have 1 1/4" OD water connections. You need something with a 12" to 15" x 2" core minimum.

sandman · Joined: 15 Jun 2005 Posts: 260 Location: The captains table

Firewater,
The system I had set up in my race boat was raw water in had a tee that fed raw water to my oil cooler, oil cooler had a valve on the outlet side to regulate the speed of water going through the cooler, then going overboard. This allowed me to shut down flow through the cooler to warm the oil up to operating temp, then full control was available for setting return temp to the engine. 240 deg. pan temp down to 180deg. return temp.
The other side of the raw water tee went through a valve to the engine, from the engine it went through the thermostat housing overboard. Pressure to the block usually ran at 20 psi, maintaining 180deg. water out temp. I'm not a fan of auto regulators as I see too many plugged regulators at work to trust one for engine cooling. I would be alert to the possibility of silt or sand causing trouble. The two valves are located between myself and the navigator. No thermal shock, block pressure maintained low, adjustable oil temps. I used 1/2" ball valves, 5/16" hose for the whole system to minimise any pressure drops. Feed in from pump is 3/8" stock and had no trouble at all.
There are other guys lurking here that have different systems that are real cool, using bowl suction side pressure to cool the oil cooler. then while sitting at idle, no flow is going through the oil cooler till you start moving. Even less parts involved with that set up!

Fire Water · Joined: 26 Oct 2006 Posts: 12

Thanks for the replies.

Hey Sandman sounds like you've got a pretty good setup. I might send a PM with some questions. I like the fact that you can compensate for river temp and regulate the oil temp at the same time.

AR · Joined: 23 Jun 2005 Posts: 181 Location: Iowa, USA

finally conviced her · Joined: 14 Aug 2006 Posts: 162 Location: Lacombe, AB

Were would you tie into the suction side? On the bowl or just behind the grate? I would guess that you would want to keep your discharge low. (at or below water line when on step)????. What size of water line should a person use??

Oil cooler is on my list for this winter as well.

And with any luck a supercharger.

Fire Water · Joined: 26 Oct 2006 Posts: 12

Hey Sandman check your pm's.