OUTLAW EAGLE MANUFACTURING

G-force · Joined: 05 Jul 2005 Posts: 105 Location: no-po, OREGON

thanksguys, yeah aluinm heads might be an option as my guys says at least half of the valves are toast. the motor blew at 3600 both times, and the combustion chambers looked lean he said. he also said it didnt look like classic detonation, and that both motors looked "weird". this shop is a very reputable shop around here and i have had several friends endorse their work. the motor was in cruise mode, we never hit full throttle or went above 4000. i was reading about edelbrok carbs and some wrote that they had mysteriously changed and leaned out after a years use. this combined with what i think was already lean having been setup for idaho, and i am at about 100 feet here, may have just been to lean. hoever then the pistons should be more melty looking i think. my friend wants my edelbrock so i think i will try a demon next time to be sure.

the fuel was 92 in theory, but i didnt drain it all out because i was thinking it was a head gasket issue before. now its out and i will fill with chevron 92.

as far as hyperu junktics go i told him, becasue of advise from you all, i wanted to go the extra few hundred and get forged. does this mean i should upgrade the rods/crank also? a regrind is 100$ so i would be out 200 if i got one of those sale pieces you mentioned.

so the iron heads might be dangerous? great there goes my retirement!

thanks again for input and keep it coming! i am researching zz383s now.........

Aluminum Squirt · Joined: 15 Jun 2005 Posts: 46 Location: Sacto, CA

G-Man,
That Rex T-stat housing with the four ports should be fine. I'm running one and have never had an issue. I know plenty of people running them from stock up to very high horsepower with no issues. Not sure how any of the hard core racers set up their cooling systems, but down here in CA, it a very popular piece of equipment with the lake crowd. It keeps some heat in the motor, makes tuning a little easier, and so far has been maintenance free. I've got a regulator before it that keeps the pressure down. I tried to keep it as simple as possible. Water comes off the drive->regulator set around 20lbs with over board dump->front of the motor into T's->continues on to the rex t stat housing on the 'in' side->2 t stat housing dumps go over board with bigger hose than the rest of the system. It just trickles out at idle but it sprays pretty good as the RPM's increase. I've also got dry headers. Hope that helps-Aluminum Squirt

MaxPower · Joined: 09 Jul 2005 Posts: 48

you could get a cast steel Scat crank for $400(plus or minus) canadian and eagle rods for 500(?), then you'd have something pretty tough on a budget. Do you have some kind of a regulator on your cooling system? Get that carb checked out too or sell it to someone you don't like and get the demon.

G-force · Joined: 05 Jul 2005 Posts: 105 Location: no-po, OREGON

MaxPower · Joined: 09 Jul 2005 Posts: 48

you must mean duration is 218 deg? Mighty demon might not work right with that cam, check into it on the barrygrant site, lots of info there. If you buy a new one, I would make sure it has the new "idle-eez". You might need it if you ever put in a wilder cam.

Aluminum Squirt · Joined: 15 Jun 2005 Posts: 46 Location: Sacto, CA

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but I think the spring and plastic slidie thing are to keep downward pressure on the actual theromstat because the housing doesn't hold it down on the manifold like a regular automotive one does....? I don't think its providing any regulation. Even if it is providing regulation, its after the fact and probably not helping your motor and gaskets from seeing some pretty high pressures. There are plenty of regulators out there you can put together cheap or hi-tech has a kit for $100 (I think) that has the whole thing including the dump and fitting. It's worked for me and I think it's cheap insurance and keep's your gaskets, heads, and block from seing any pressure spikes-Aluminum Squirt

AR · Joined: 23 Jun 2005 Posts: 181 Location: Iowa, USA

Squirt-I run almost the same Water set-up as you.

But, you got the spring and plastic valve wrong as I see it.

What happens is when the motor is cold the water is routed by the "T's" at the water pump inlets on the front of the motor up to the two top holes on the housing and is then dumped over board by the bottem two holes. Because the Motor is full and has no outlet until the Thermostat opens.

As the temp comes up and the thermostst starts to open the water pressure on the bottom of the plastic valve overcomes the pressure on the top of the same valve and now comes threw the therostat and dumps out of the lower two holes in the housing. So the little plastic valve is the part that is constantly moving.

Bottom line- the body of the Thermostat does not move up and down or at all.

G-force · Joined: 05 Jul 2005 Posts: 105 Location: no-po, OREGON

what keeps it from pushing the t-stat up rather than the plastic deal down?

AR · Joined: 23 Jun 2005 Posts: 181 Location: Iowa, USA

It fits in the recess in the manifold, then the gasket . then the housing sets on that. It can't move.
Think about it, what good would a thermostat do if the body wasn't sealed from moving. Just the center moves and that is with heat from hot water.

What, do you have you'res setting on top of the gasket ?

G-force · Joined: 05 Jul 2005 Posts: 105 Location: no-po, OREGON

uhh no, i dont think so, youre right it does make sense. i had i t all figured out before but lost it in the caverns of my mind somewhere i n between. thanks................................................................

need motor, just need motor.

Aluminum Squirt · Joined: 15 Jun 2005 Posts: 46 Location: Sacto, CA

AR, thanx for the explanation, that makes sense. Am I correct in assuming it provides no regulation as far as pressure?-Aluminum Squirt

AR · Joined: 23 Jun 2005 Posts: 181 Location: Iowa, USA

Yes !

G-force · Joined: 05 Jul 2005 Posts: 105 Location: no-po, OREGON

ok man i hate this. the question is always "wheres the next weakest link?" well jeez it could go on indefinitely! this block that block, splayed caps, forged this and that, to NOS or not to NOS. i need to be carefull or i will end up with one trick small block, which i was building to SAVE money???
all new valves, springs and guides, the old ones were too weak spring by almost 50%, and guides were iron, needs bronze? keeping my roller cam and lifters. got new pistons, keith black forged flat top. they look nice. Rolling Eyes

wishing i could drop the 2k$ on splayed caps/all forged but i cant stand shelving the old parts for some reason.

2 questions:

is splayed caps/all forged worth the cost/hp?

which spark plug should i start with on the new engine?

TOP DAWG · Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2005 10:11 pm Post subject:

Here's my little CHEVY SB 2.2 that turns 7000 rpm no problems

TOP DAWG · Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2005 10:12 pm Post subject:

too big