OUTLAW EAGLE MANUFACTURING

don wright · Joined: 15 Oct 2009 Posts: 111 Location: GP

i believe mud is still good propulsion. Thats probably why the stock impeller and wear ring lasted 50 hrs. what are the toughest impellers out there for a harbercraft extreme with 200 opti and merc pump? it also porpoises at higher speeds, is there a trim nozzle available? i dont want to go to trim tabs for obvious abusive reasons. i'm new in this jet boating world this year and need help!

rokchucker · Joined: 15 Sep 2009 Posts: 36 Location: Ft Assiniboine AB

scott water jets out of new zealand is the only outfit i've been able to find that builds a trim nozzle for sport jets.apparently they they work really well ,(i have one on order for next spring )heres the link for the canadian dealer http://www.princegeorgeyamaha.com/jet_boat_trim_nozzles.htm.i know that outlaw had some for sale a while back but i dont know if they regularly stock them .hope this helps .cheers

boosted · Joined: 04 Jun 2009 Posts: 378

For pumping mud you cannot beat a UHMW wear ring. If you are runnig alot of shale rock then a stainless wear ring works better.

sandman · Joined: 15 Jun 2005 Posts: 260 Location: The captains table

Don't leave home without the hi skew inpeller! Wear rings of pressed in stainless are very good, haven't used a plastic one though. I did try a paint on epoxy type of material to build up the wear ring, has issues with my installation though and didn't rough up the wear ring enough to get the adhesion I wanted and as a result it started chipping off. The stuff was called Belzona. I did make a trim nozzle using locally available parts, it worked good and utilised the existing nozzle, had to trim out a little of the reverse bucket but it made the reverse on the sportjet work like a Hamilton 212! PM me if you would like some details.

blen · Joined: 31 Oct 2006 Posts: 53 Location: Vancouver

Any chance you can post the details of your trim system? Pics ?
Thankyou

sandman · Joined: 15 Jun 2005 Posts: 260 Location: The captains table

pm sent

grizzslayer · Joined: 22 May 2006 Posts: 16

Hello Sandman,

Could you send me some details and pics of the trim nozzle too. Thanks

Grizz

rokchucker · Joined: 15 Sep 2009 Posts: 36 Location: Ft Assiniboine AB

hey sandman..id also like to see how ya figgered that out.ive been working on some plans along those lines,but everything i came up with so far involved irreversibly altering the stock nozzle and im kinda scared to do that in case it dont work Shocked

thanx

RUNNIN WIDE OPEN · Joined: 08 Aug 2009 Posts: 19 Location: SYLVAN LAKE

Sandman could you also send me youre information/pictures on the setup? I also have been working on a similar setup, thanks very much!!! Razz

sandman · Joined: 15 Jun 2005 Posts: 260 Location: The captains table

R.W.O
The nozzle setup I concocted was built in a day with cheap parts and a little elbow grease! Original set up was using a sprayer pump to cycle glycol through a 100psi air cylinder. I will attach the part numbers for it. Newer set up I have right now on my step tec operates with a Chrunyk race nozzle and is basically a master/slave cylinder set up, also on glycol with a 12v solenoid to lock it out to maintain position. This system works real well, it is simple and eliminates the pump. Princess auto has the cylinders and other associated parts.

1) Remove old sportjet nozzle, flip it over and weld on a new steering arm to the position it will need to be in, do not drill it till later.
Why? Flipping the nozzle over puts the bottom pivot point pad up top, it is thicker and suited quite well for what is going to be needed to be done.
You will be able to tell by looking at it that the lower pivot casting has more meat to it. The pivot hole must be slotted out to allow travel,
edges may need to be rounded to allow the nozzle to travel in its slot.

2) I used parts from Princess auto, (Pump, selector lever, cylinders, end clevis) The pump operated the cylinder which was originally built for air service
but works real well with glycol mix. Eliminated freezing/pollution if using RV antifreeze

3) Reverse bucket had to be trimmed so the cylinder would fit when it was installed. Side effect of all this is that the reverse really worked awesome! Totally
unplanned I might add!

4) Once flipped, the top pivot point, which used to be on the bottom, now has to be trimmed up into a slot that will allow the nozzle to move.

5) Make sure when you build your cylinder holding plate, that it will also work as the retainer for your top pivot bolt and the plate is wide enough
to act as the stopper to keep the nozzle in its place.

6) This unit uses a 12volt sprayer pump, any kind can be used as liong as it has the pressure shut off switch. This way it only runs when needed, 100psi is best.

Parts list:
2" stroke cylinder p# 8188179 = $15.00 ( this is what I used, others can be used, but they may hang up due to larger length.)
Clevis end for cylinder c/w lock P# 8041287 = $6.00
Control Valve P# 8190480 = $20.00
12volt pressure shut off pump, P# 8234726 = $120.00
Mounting bracket width should accommodate width of mount on cylinder

Unit has one drawback, as you trim the nozzle up for a nice roost, it will kick the steering off to one side a bit, but it never had any ill effects that I can remember.
Unit had about 10 degrees of trim up and down, use wedging to set it's start and finish points

sandman · Joined: 15 Jun 2005 Posts: 260 Location: The captains table

Theres a lot more to Princess auto than just Princess's!

Biggest trouble I had was getting the air out of the system, both manual and pumped versions, best way is to ensure the lines are filled first. When using the pump, I had a suction/return bottle of about 150ml size and only had to top it off once in 2 years. Ensure cylinders are filled and purged before attaching lines to eliminate sponginess.
Use blue locktite, allow a little slack in the cylinder mount so it can float a little to allow travel. I used a oillite brass bushing to accomodate a little motion.
There are limits to the system depending on how much room you are allowed above your pump and how far you want the nozzle to travel.
This unit will not fire as roost over the bridge anywhere but it can help you get out of the hole and compensate for changing loads. I saw about 6-8' of roost when running all the way up.

There are others out there a lot smarter than me that may look at this and see ways to improve it, feel free to do so, I only ask that changes be posted for all to see.
I'm not responsible for anything adverse that may happen, you do your mods at your own risk!

rokchucker · Joined: 15 Sep 2009 Posts: 36 Location: Ft Assiniboine AB

thanx for the info sandman.very helpful.one thing though .im not sure that an air cylinder or the rest of the hydraulic system for that matter ,will reliably take the back pressure that could be generated .(usually only rated @300psi)it would be a helluva wreck if that cylinder failed @WOT goin into a corner .great plans any way.thanx again.

sandman · Joined: 15 Jun 2005 Posts: 260 Location: The captains table

I use the same cylinder on my race nozzle and it has 2 seasons on it now but I see what you mean. Couldn't find a better cylinder anywhere at the time, tried an electric trim tab actuator but it wouldnt hold at the angle I was running it at. I thought that the weak link would be the air brake line if anything. Small hydraulic cylinder that would fit was the problem when I tried it. Even E-bay was holding onto its secrets!