View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
Xerophobic
Joined: 23 Jun 2005 Posts: 970 Location: Calgary Alberta, Canada
|
Posted: Tue May 30, 2006 7:11 pm Post subject: pump Mod's? |
|
|
K my parts are on the way and my pump is completely apart and out of the boat. Anyone suggest anything I can do in the next few days to improve performance a bit?
I've taken a die grinder to the trailing edges of my Berk bowl and tapered that blunt area. Worked it down to about 1/16 " (only touching front side of vanes)
Ive also rounded the exit on the outside diamter of the bowl, taken away that sharp edge
When I reinstall it i will line it up perfectly (it wasn't before)and am going to bondo over the small gap between the suction and intake.
I've started making a new intake grate that has airfoil shaped bars (x the outside 4 symetrical and the inner 4 asymetrical pulling the water away from the centerline.
Any other suggestions?
Is it worth sharpening my SS imp a bit before install?
Thanks guys I wanna see some decent speeds outta this thing finally
Cheers _________________ T-53 , why go up and down when you wanna go round and round???? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
YKX
Joined: 21 Jul 2005 Posts: 181 Location: Yellowknife
|
Posted: Wed May 31, 2006 11:11 am Post subject: |
|
|
Get a drop snout without a reverse bucket, then play with the wedges for the perfect feel.
YKX |
|
Back to top |
|
|
WILSON
Joined: 17 Jun 2005 Posts: 352 Location: Mexico City
|
Posted: Wed May 31, 2006 4:54 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I don't think you'll be getting much advise on this one, as no racer will want to disclose trade secrets.
But I'm a nice guy.
Yes, it is a good idea to shape the intake grate bars as fins or "airplane wings".
Yes, you will actually see and feel a difference if you sharpen the blades of that impeller. You can also sharpen the blades on the bowl.
When installing the impeller, make sure you have a low clearance between the front of the impeller and the wear ring. Distance should be between 0.025" and 0.030". You will have to try a lot of shim combinations until you get what you want.
Use a shouldered wear ring.
Use bondo to eliminate and smoothe (Is this a correct word???) any gaps between the wear ring and the suction piece, along the water direction.
Make sure you have a smooth path on the direction of water between the suction piece and the boat intake and bottom.
Some people like to block the hand hole cover. I donīt like this approach, but it seems to work. _________________ Wisdom chases me, but Iīm faster |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Xerophobic
Joined: 23 Jun 2005 Posts: 970 Location: Calgary Alberta, Canada
|
Posted: Wed May 31, 2006 6:57 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks Wilson, I figured a few people would give me some pointers on what to try. I think I have a good general idea of what to aim for but you did raise a point I had not considered(gap between wear ring and housing near insulator)
I had also planned on "pinning" the wear ring with a single 1/4" bolt to secure it in place.
I have a shouldered AT wear ring on the way and SS "a" impeller. Sounds like that impeller can be made alot better than stock with some time spent with a die grinder
Anyone running inducers on pumps in whitewater racing? I have heard already bowl stuffers are used
Cheers
(nozzle mods etc are next project XY ) _________________ T-53 , why go up and down when you wanna go round and round???? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|