OUTLAW EAGLE MANUFACTURING

[reeder]

I don't have any tips cause I'm a newbie but was just wondering what kind of things everybody else with experience normally does.

[Bald Man]

A Sportjet or V-8 boat?
With my V-8 boat, I have no closed system so it real easy.
- Pull impeller and grease shaft real good. Leave the impeller out.
- Pump fresh grease thru your bowl.
- Grease your U-Joints.
- Grease steering cable and any other cables you may have.
- Drain block with the drains you should have installed on the block.
- Remove water lines from the pump & manifolds; check any low areas.
- Don't forget the oil cooler.
- Pull plugs and squirt a bit of motor oil in each cylinder, turn engine over once or twice.
- Fogging the engine is up to you.
- Change your oil, to getb rid of any moisture.
- Back off the valve springs.
- Drain what you can from the fuel tank. Start with fresh gas in the spring.
- Grease or re-pack the trailer bearings.
- Good time to the check the lights and wiring for moisture.
- Kill any cats that may walk on your boat during winter storage.
I might have missed a few things. Don't freeze your engine or you will be sad.

[Arthur]

Reeder:I have a closed system....I usually just check the A/Freeze to make sure it's good for -45 and then start it for a few seconds to blow any water out of the manifolds and/or muffler.The tips like Baldy listed about trailer bearings,cat's and greasing are very good too.(Stupid cats)I haven't had a problem with it being in my unheated shop far two winters now.....as long as there's nothing to freeze, you should be OK.I have never pulled my impeller out for winterizing purpose's though....I usually do all that routine mait. in the spring when it's warm and I'm waiting for the ice to vacate...... (Stupid ice)

[finally conviced her]

Does any V8 need the valve springs backed off?
Does anybody have the time or inclination to explain fogging?

[Bald Man]

Check this out

Two- and four-stroke recreational vehicles, hand-held power equipment, small engines, construction and farm equipment are commonly operated seasonally or infrequently, then stored for long periods of time. During these periods of inactivity, and as a result of fluctuations in ambient temperatures, water vapor can form condensate within the engine. When this condensate comes into direct contact with steel and iron components, it forms surface corrosion on cylinder liners, piston rings, anti-friction bearings and steel/iron contact surfaces on rotational seals. Long periods of storage can also dry out cylinders, often resulting in permanent damage when the equipment is taken out of storage and dry started. In addition, fuel within stored equipment tends to oxidize and form varnish and sludge deposits that clog injectors, fuel lines and carburetors, stick floats and cause poor engine performance, starting problems, increased maintenance expenses and decreased equipment life.

Most two- and four-stroke motor oils are formulated to have an affinity to engine component surfaces, acting as a barrier that keeps condensate from contacting engine components and forming corrosion. However, the effectiveness of motor oil in this area diminishes with time.

AMSOIL Engine Fogging Oil (FOG) offers superior film retention, providing long-term protection against corrosion and dry starts, extending engine life and reducing operating expenses. Its aerosol spray formulation offers easy and clean applications, while reaching more components and offering complete distribution of the oil, something especially beneficial in applications with horizontal cylinder orientation, such as outboard motors. Consult equipment owners manual for application directions.

[Xerophobic]

Ive often heard its far better to store a vehicle with completely full gas tanks and a good fuel stabilizer. Empty tanks leave an enclosed space which can build condensation easily when the temperature fluctuates.
I wouldn't hesitate to drain float bowls on a carb tho

Cheers

p.s. full tanks would only apply if the storage was "relatively" short term of course

[Arthur]

I can barely afford a full tank of gas for summer trips...never mind the off season

[Itsworthit]

Baldy, whatever you were on when you did that post, wow, did it make you smart or what, oh wait, someone was dictating that to you, still pretty impressive that at your age you could maintain focus long enuf to type that blurb, good job

[TOP DAWG]

I figured he must have cut and pasted that Don't worry Baldy I haven't forgotten about you next time I'm heading south I'll drop off your goodies.

[Bald Man]

Most definitely a copy & paste.
I'm smart enough to do that

[reeder]

Holy Sheeeite Baldy, that was like being in a "jet boat seminar", good job!
although some of those words were too big for me to understand. Have you ever thought of starting up a T.V show and call it "Jetboater Television". I think we're on to something here. Arthur, mine is a closed system too, is there any drains on the heat exchanger or exhaust manifolds? (although we may have different manifolds).

[Arthur]

Yeah...mine have 3/4" plugs on the bottom of the manifolds that take a 1/2" ratchet to remove them.I did this a while back to flush out unwanted sand and silt that can build up in there.As for the exchanger I have no drain, but if you want to get in there I believe most just have caps on either end with a rod through the middle.You can loosen it off and look down the tube's to see for blockage.Hope this helps.........

[Dano]

My other boat had little 1/4 turn valves on the bottom of the exhaust manifold instead of plugs. It was very handy for draining after every run to clear the silt out.

[Hines]

Carey your right on the dave thing where was he coming from / just drain the bitchen block and carryon its a motor it will be fine clean it up in the spring if you feel you need to.later

[DOC]

I cant believe Crawford would make a comment about anyones age, considering how old he is.